You can reach out to me via email: cardsurgeonshop@gmail.com. You can also DM me on my social media pages. I usually take 1-2 business days to respond.

Yes! You can visit my commissions page on this site for more information.

Yes! I currently have an Etsy shop that you can visit on the homepage. There may be plans to sell on my website, but that would be in the far future.

Yes! I am a small business based in Houston, Texas. I am a University of Houston alumnus, so I am looking for any opportunity to vend on campus. I am also looking for other opportunities to vend in the area, so please keep an eye out for any announcements either on my newsletter page or my social media.

I try my very best to keep prices reasonable for both parties, because I am a fellow hobbyist like most of you.

The base price depends on the number of cards used and time spent. I add a small percentage to take care of all of the shipping materials. Other details, like whether holographic cards are used or if the demand for this particular Pokemon is high, may affect the price by a little. The shipping price looks like a pain, but in reality, paying for such a convenient service demands that much money.

I plan on sticking to Pokemon. I personally play a little bit of Magic: The Gathering, but I hold Pokemon the closest to my heart.

Here are the steps:

I take multiple of the same card, typically 2-8, depending on the details of the artwork. I internally visualize each layer that I will cut out. The last card will always be the back of the 3D card, and it is uncut. Here is a visual example. The red is roughly where I will make the cuts using an exacto knife.

I color the cut edges of the cards with a black marker. I start blacking out the bottom layer of the card in the areas that will be covered by the next top layer with black permanent marker. To make things easier, I use markers with different point thicknesses. The last top layer is unmarked. Here is a visual example.

I take other bulk cards and cut them to use as filler cards. I eyeball where the “frame” is of the 3D card. I typically put 3 cards in between each Pokemon card layer. I also color the cut edges of the filler cards with a black marker.

I brush Mod Podge to glue all of the cards together. I make sure to squeeze excess Mod Podge from each layer as I glue.

I wait for the 3D card to dry off. Then, I take a moist paper towel (excess water has been squeezed out) and clean the front off.

The card is finished off with a signature in permanent marker on the back of it. I sign it with a “CS 20XX”. (At least I try to remember to do that.)

Honestly, it varies depending on the amount of detail in the artwork of the original card. Usually, for a 3D card that takes 4 cards, I take about an hour, more or less (from start to finish). It seems pretty fast, but I put all of my focus into making these.

I usually make 3D cards in “batches”; I cut all of the different cards I want to make first. Then I black out everything, cut out all of the filler cards, color the edges, and then glue them all at once.

I purchased 5,000+ Pokemon cards from a close friend to kickstart the business. Currently, I use TCGPlayer for cards that I do not have on hand, or I go to my local game stores to buy their bulk. It’s pretty difficult to just pull the cards you need from booster packs. Definitely way cheaper to buy singles!